Observation at Charity in London

Posted on 24th May 2023 by Xinwei Gao

Today, I visited a nearby charity shop. I stood in the store and observed for 30 minutes. There were 17 people who entered the store, and half of them were young individuals. Out of those, 5 people made purchases, and 2 of them were young. This further confirms my previous intervention; the charity shop is being embraced by the millennials gen-z in London.

At the same time, I have reviewed the official website of the British Heart Foundation. It is indeed stated that donations are free, and they also offer a collection service. However, they mention the term “quality donations,” and i would like to know the definition of quality donations.

evidence for offline interview with staff


I interviewed one of their staff members, and he introduced himself as George. He mentioned that he has been working there for couple months.

He explained that their definition of “quality donations” refers to clothes that are undamaged and in good condition, suitable for resale. It doesn’t necessarily mean they have to be from high-end or designer brands; the focus is on the garment’s manufacture and overall condition. However, if people have unwanted clothes, they will still accept them for recycling. The remaining items will be packaged and collected by someone else, although George is not aware of the specific destination for those items.

He also informed me that if I want to learn more, I can come back on Friday as their manager will be present there throughout the day.

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Comparing data and attitude in London and Shanghai

Posted on 12th May 2023 by Xinwei Gao

The street interviews in London revealed that the majority of people are willing to donate their unwanted clothes. The next common options are selling them online or giving them to family and friends. Very few people choose to directly throw away their clothes or are unsure about how to handle them.

In the survey conducted among Shanghai students, it was found that out of the 118 participants, over 70% chose to directly throw away their unwanted clothes, while 30% opted for donation. This data is completely opposite to the findings from the street interviews in London. The habitual choice of throwing away and discarding for 71.19%.


I am glad to hear that whether in London or Shanghai, almost participants are still willing to participate in related activities or initiatives to promote clothing reuse and sustainable fashion. Most people still maintain a positive attitude, which is encouraging.

However, I still have doubts about what has led to this data.

Such as cultural, knowledge and education, convenience and access, and environmental consciousness? I will explored more back of the data.

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Questionnaire about Chinese students in Shanghai

Posted on 11th May 2023 by Xinwei Gao

Based on the previous intervention of street interviews conducted in London, I have created a similar survey targeting Chinese students in Shanghai and those studying in the UK. I have collected feedback from a total of 118 participants.

关于中国学生如何处理不需要的衣物的问卷调查 About Shanghai students disposing of unwanted clothes

  1. 在学校期间，您是否曾面临过不需要的衣物的问题？Have you ever faced the issue of unwanted clothing during your study?

2. 您通常如何处理您不需要的衣物？请选择以下选项：How do you usually handle your unwanted clothing?

3. 对于您选择捐赠衣物的慈善机构或二手商店，您会考虑以下因素吗？请选择所有适用的选项：When choosing a charity shop or thrift store to donate clothing, do you consider the following factors? Please select all applicable options:

4. 您认为有哪些因素可能影响中国学生处理不需要的衣物的行为？What factors do you think may influence the behavior of Chinese students when dealing with unwanted clothing? Please select from the following options:

5. 您是否愿意参与相关活动或倡议，以推广衣物的二次使用和可持续时尚？Would you be willing to participate in related activities or initiatives to promote clothing reuse and sustainable fashion?

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Summary of Primary Research Stage

Posted on 4th May 2023 by Xinwei Gao

The first primary research method include in this project is the street interview with 31 people at Colindale, London. Only 20 people gave me valid response in the interview. My findings suggest that almost everyone had a strong awareness of secondary processing. They usually chose to sell, donate or give it to their brothers and sisters at home online. Only three of them told me that they had no idea how to deal with it. However, most of them also told me that they would not want to try these secondary clothes from strangers themselves. I believed This research method based on a mixture of qualitative and quantitative studies could help me learn basic facts while obtaining insight personal understandings.

In the meantime, I also worked with interview influencers, stylists, as well as o LVMH Beauty- Sustainability Head China, Tingting Han. My findings suggest the following. Firstly, as long as a wasted material can be reused and create value, then the circular model is completed. For example, LVMH is planning to start a new recycle program with its beer brand Hennessy, where the bottles of the beer will be reused to make art works or for other purposes. At the same time, the interview also found that bloggers and stylists have a strong environmental awareness when it comes to clothing. However, some people think that the donation model seen online is unreliable in China, where there is a phenomenon of fake charities. On top of this, it is interesting to notice that some people hesitate or even regret their decision to dispose of clothes. For example, in the later stage, when they want to make a new match. They find that the style or colour of the clothes they have already disposed of is exactly what they need. These findings based on the primary data are illuminating in that they show different stakeholders’ attitudes when it comes to second-hand use of clothes. It has confirmed that there are still many limitations when customers and fashion practitioners interact with the second-hand use of clothes. They suggest that the project is meaningful and that the project is in the right direction.

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Reflections on the intervention

Posted on 2nd May 2023 by Xinwei Gao

I collected information from 20 interviewees and obtained their consent to record the interviews. There were 9 female and 11 male participants and 9 Millennials and 11 Gen-Zs among the respondents. The oldest participant was 36 years old and the youngest was 18.

Only one male respondent told me that he did not have any unwanted clothes. The other 19 respondents all have unwanted clothes.

Most of the interviewees told me that they are willing to try second-hand clothes, but they have some concerns that make them hesitant. I have summarized some of the reasons they mentioned: hygiene concerns, personal preference for new items, and lack of accessibility to second-hand shops.

Reflection on the effectiveness of my method: I found that my approach to collecting attitudes and behaviors from my target audience through street interviews was effective. I explored the attitudes and behaviors of young people in London towards old clothes, and I believe that these practices are applicable globally. My goal is to promote sustainable clothing concept and provide practical advice for taking action in different cultural and social backgrounds. However, my method still has limitations. I would like to have a greater impact on Chinese people’s attitude towards clothing reuse, in addition to the UK. But I am currently in London. My interviewees may only represent a part of the population, and I will consider improving future interventions.

Data collection analysis: I analyzed the data collected from street interviews. The realization that most interviewees had a strong awareness of the concept of second-hand usage indicates that sustainability consciousness is gradually spreading. The finding that most interviewees are willing to try second-hand clothes suggests that there may be more people choosing to buy second-hand clothes in the future. Understanding the concerns of interviewees about second-hand clothes, such as hygiene issues, personal preference for new items, and accessibility issues to second-hand shops, can help me better understand consumer needs and preferences, and thus develop more targeted intervention strategies.

Reflection on stakeholder involvement: My first street interview was random, and the young people between 18 and 36 years old were my stakeholders. In the future, I will study the attitudes and behaviors of young people in Shanghai towards sustainability, and explore whether they face similar issues as young people in London. I think I should collaborate with more institutions and brands to ensure the feasibility of the project.

Reflection on personal bias: I had personal bias towards this topic from the beginning. After conducting a series of investigations, the data changed my perspective. For example, I predicted that people would be more unaware of how to deal with unwanted clothes. But the fact is that most people have a strong concept of second-hand usage.

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First intervention

Posted on 30th April 2023 by Xinwei Gao

Location: Colindale, London

From 11am-3pm

walk around in Colindale and do street interviews

Street interviews methods: voice recording

I asked a total of 31 people, and out of those, 11 declined my interview due to reasons such as exercising, working, or being short on time. However, I was still able to gather data from 20 people, and I am satisfied with that.

Here is the recording:

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Intervention Plan

Posted on 28th April 2023 by Xinwei Gao

First, I have been trying to sell these four T-shirts on the secondhand app Vinted in the UK. They are samples from Chinese brands that were sent to me. But due to issues with shipping fee, I was unable to return them. Although these clothes are not my style, they are all new and made from high-quality materials, so I attempted to sell them online. However, it has been 7 months. The most viewed item has only received 21 views and 3 favorites.

According to my data description, my intervention did not achieve the expected effect.

BUT MY CHANGES

I realized that promoting the sustainable culture of second-hand clothing requires not only one-time online interventions but also longer-term and more comprehensive strategies.

I discovered the need for a deeper understanding of the needs and preferences of the target audience, as well as their perceptions and attitudes towards sustainability, in order to better design and implement interventions.

Then, I am planning to sort out the clothes that I no longer need. Then, I will try to sell or exchange them within my own community. I will collect data in this way. I will send an email to my community first, hoping to get permission.

In the following day, I received an email stating that my community does not allow me to conduct this intervention.

So, I am planning to switch to conducting street interviews for my intervention. I will save the selling or exchanging intervention for the next time when I find a suitable and permissible location.

Street Interviews Plan:

How old are you?

Have you ever had any unwanted clothes?

What percentage do you think it takes up in your wardrobe?

How do you plan to deal with them?

Have you heard of the concept of sustainable fashion or second-hand clothing? If so, what do you know about these concepts?

Are you willing to try buying or using second-hand clothing? If not, what is the reason?

Are you willing to take action to reduce your clothing waste? If so, what actions do you usually take? If not, why not?

Then I will choose the sunny day and enjoy the spring time.

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Reflective thinking of interview from expert

Posted on 13th February 2023 by Xinwei Gao

The Importance of Desktop Research: Han suggested that I conduct desktop research as a necessary step in any project to better understand market conditions and consumer needs. I can use intervention to achieve this goal.

Challenges Faced by Millennials and Gen Z: Han believes that the biggest obstacle to dealing with unwanted clothing is a lack of good/innovative channels. So, my goal is to gain a deeper understanding of the target audience’s needs and how to better meet those needs, and to encourage them to participate in activities and share their stories.

Collaboration with Multiple Parties: Han suggested that collaboration with multiple parties is necessary and makes perfect sense. I will look for brands that I can partner with and work with them on my intervention.

Market Segmentation Analysis: Han suggested that I conduct market segmentation analysis, which is also very important. Different cities may have different priorities and needs, and I will focus more on Shanghai for this project, as the literature Han provided me with indicates that Gen-Z in first and second-tier cities in China are driving growth. They account for over 65% of preloved goods buyers, which presents a large market and development opportunity. I will use preliminary data from London as a reference and compare it with my analysis to dive deeper into my project.

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Conversation with my expert

Posted on 9th February 2023 by Xinwei Gao

LVMH Beauty- Sustainability Head China，Tingting Han

After our meeting on February 2nd, she shared with me some of LVMH’s plans and ideas regarding sustainability in 2023. For example, LVMH plans to launch a new recycling program in collaboration with its brand Hennessy. Hennessy’s bottles will be reused to create artworks, and they will be promoted through social media influencers and artists, thus reintroducing these artworks made from bottles to the public eye. In addition, Dior has been holding exhibitions featuring its past haute couture and sketches in different regions and countries, attracting people from all walks of life to come and learn. This initiative has given new life and meaning to these haute couture pieces.

In summary, through this conversation, I gained a new understanding of sustainability. As long as items are given a second value, this is sustainability.

After returning, I contacted her again about my project through email.

Evidence:

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Secondary research

Posted on 2nd February 2023 by Xinwei Gao

The findings of the secondary research have also been extremely fruitful and illuminating for this project. To begin with, as mentioned above, quantitative primary data by secondary sources such as Wiedemann et al. (2020), King, (2021), Pawar (2021), and Wang et al. (2020) have shown the great environmental pollution caused by the fashion industry and the serious ramifications for the mankind if nothing were to be done, which is also the reason why I decided to work on this subjective matter in the first place.

In addition to this, as has been mentioned above, the secondary research findings by scholars like Kirchherr et al. (2018), Van Weelden et al. (2016), Su et al. (2013), and Ghisellini et al. (2016) confirmed that why it is important to promote the sustainable culture of second-hand use of clothes and accessories through education and information dissemination. Despite people’s willingness to support sustainable and ethical consumption, they do not know second-hand use of clothes and accessories well, neither do they have channels for reliable information related, which has given them doubts about second-hand use of clothes and accessories.

In the meantime, the qualitative secondary data by Corepal et al. (2018) and Smith (2022) also show why it is right for this project to target young customers like the Millennials and Gen Zs. After all, they are the major customers of fashion products nowadays. They are willing to make a difference. Also, they are more likely to change their behaviors once their awareness has been raised.

Based on my previous tutorial with Elizabeth and considering my own work, Elizabeth suggested to focus on social media, fashion PR, and circular economy/design. As a result, I have conducted some research specifically on circular economy/design.

In terms of what exactly is circular economy, Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2012, p.7) defined that “an industrial system that is restorative or regenerative by intention and design. It replaces the ‘end-of-life’ concept with restoration, shifts towards the use of renewable energy, eliminates the use of toxic chemicals, which impair reuse, and aims for the elimination of waste through the superior design of materials, products, systems, and, within this, business models.” This indicates that in essence circular economy is the process to change the linear “take‐make‐use‐throwaway” model into the circular “take‐make‐use‐reuse”. This is an effort to ensure that there is no waste or minimized waste in the process of production. While this model can be used for any industries, there goes without saying that it can also be applied to the fashion industry for sustainable consumption and secondhand use of materials. In fact, Diddi and Yan (2019) found that if major fashion producers could use circular economy model, by the time of 2050, the fashion industry’s greenhouse gas emissions could be reduced by at least 30%. However, at the same time, the qualitative secondary data from existing literature also showed that circular economy is not a fit for this project in many aways. For example, according to Chen et al. (2021), materials used in clothing and accessory items such as cotton, wool, silk, and wood are not suitable for circular economy, as remaking can change their shapes and even chemical structure.

In other words, my understanding is that the fashion industry, in order to achieve a circular economy, requires a highly efficient supply chain. This includes the process of product production, decomposition, extraction, and remanufacturing. The resulting items must be sustainably circulated and ultimately return to nature. However, based on my research, implementing a circular economy is demanding in terms of initial financial investment and the required technologies. Consequently, considering the feasibility of this issue, I had no choice but to abandon this idea.

Bibliography

Chen, X., Memon, H. A., Wang, Y., Marriam, I., & Tebyetekerwa, M. (2021). Circular Economy and Sustainability of the Clothing and Textile Industry. Materials Circular Economy, 3(1). https://doi.org/10.1007/s42824-021-00026-2

Corepal, R., Tully, M. A., Kee, F., Miller, S. J., & Hunter, R. F. (2018). Behavioural incentive interventions for health behaviour change in young people (5–18 years old): A systematic review and meta-analysis. Preventive Medicine, 110, 55–66. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ypmed.2018.02.004

Diddi, S., & Yan, R. (2019). Consumer perceptions related to clothing repair and community mending events: A circular economy perspective. Sustainability, 11(19), 5306.

Ellen MacArthur Foundation. (2017). Ellen MacArthur Foundation Priority Research Agenda (2017). https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/assets/downloads/higher-education/EMF_Priority-Research-Agenda-copy.pdf

Ghisellini, P., Cialani, C., & Ulgiati, S. (2016). A review on circular economy: The expected transition to a balanced interplay of environmental and economic systems. Journal of Cleaner Production, 114, pp.11-32.

King, S. (2021).  How The Fashion Industry Contributes To Pollution. Sustainable Chic. https://www.sustainably-chic.com/blog/fashion-industry-pollution

Kirchherr, J., Piscicelli, L., Bour, R., Kostense-Smit, E., Muller, J., Huibrechtse-Truijens, A., & Hekkert, M. (2018). Barriers to the circular economy: Evidence from the European union (EU). Ecological Economics, 150, pp.264-272.

Pawar, K. (2020). Fashion industry can play an important role in pollution of air and can resist to have clean air. https://letmebreathe.in/2020/09/07/how-polluting-is-the-fashion-industry/

Van Weelden, E., Mugge, R., & Bakker, C. (2016) .Paving the way towards circular consumption: Exploring consumer acceptance of refurbished mobile phones in the dutch market. Journal of Cleaner Production, 113, pp.743-754.

Wang, B., Jin, C., & Liu, J. (2020). Understanding Future Change of Global Monsoons Projected by CMIP6 Models. Journal of Climate, 33(15), 6471–6489. https://doi.org/10.1175/JCLI-D-19-0993.1

Wiedemann, S.G., Biggs, L., Nebel, B., Bauch, K., Laitala, K., Klepp, I.G., Swan, P.G. & Watson, K. 2020, “Environmental impacts associated with the production, use, and end-of-life of a woollen garment”, The international journal of life cycle assessment, vol. 25, no. 8, pp. 1486-1499.

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