Comparison between the reference and the actual experiences of my mother and grandmother

UK secondhand history:

During the First World War, Britain experienced significant resource shortages and hardships, which led to second-hand clothing becoming a symbol during that period. This phenomenon can be attributed to several factors:

Resource Shortages: The First World War triggered a massive conflict that resulted in a severe shortage of resources, including fabrics and textiles. The wartime production demands placed tremendous pressure on Britain’s textile industry, leading to the diversion of many new clothing materials for military purposes rather than civilian use.

Economic Challenges: During the war, the British economy suffered significant shocks. Factors such as resource shortages, inflation, and reduced employment opportunities made people’s lives more challenging. As a result, people began looking for ways to cut expenses.

Thrift and Sharing: Faced with resource scarcity, a culture of thrift and sharing emerged in society. People began to cherish existing items, including clothing, rather than casually discarding or wasting them. This cultural shift contributed to the popularity of second-hand clothing.

Symbol of Resilience: Second-hand clothing during that period was not just an economic choice; it also carried symbolic significance. It symbolized people’s resilience and perseverance during difficult times and their wise use of resources.

Charity and Donations: To support the war effort, people engaged in charitable activities, including donating second-hand clothing to those in need. This behavior further reinforced the symbolism of second-hand clothing.

In summary, during the First World War, Britain’s resource shortages and economic challenges prompted people to seek ways to save money while emphasizing values of thrift and resilience. As a result, second-hand clothing became a symbol representing people’s strength and collective efforts during difficult times. This symbolism likely took root during that unique historical period and continued to exist.

China secondhand history:

In China, in the 1970s, many people had a lower-class impression of second-hand clothing and believed that they were not socially accepted. This can be attributed to several historical, cultural, and societal factors:

Cultural and Social Beliefs: In traditional Chinese culture, new things are often seen as symbols of good luck and auspiciousness, while old things may be considered to bring bad luck. This cultural belief may influence people’s pursuit of brand new clothing.

Historical Background: The 1970s were a period of significant social and political upheaval in China, including the Cultural Revolution. During this time, people’s social status and identity were often influenced by political views and class backgrounds. Consequently, owning new items could be seen as a symbol of a person’s favorable relationship with the political system.

Supply Shortages: During that era, Chinese society faced shortages of various goods, including food and clothing. As a result, acquiring new items might have been seen as a luxury, while using old items could have been out of necessity rather than choice.

Social Hierarchy Beliefs: Some individuals may have associated clothing with social status, believing that wearing expensive new clothing was a way to elevate one’s social standing, while wearing old clothing might have been seen as a sign of lower social status or financial hardship.

My grandmother was born in 1936, and she experienced World War I and the Cultural Revolution, which were the two significant periods in China and Britain when viewpoints on second-hand clothing began to form, as shown in the reference earlier. Corresponding to the historical context, my grandmother cherishes every piece of clothing she owns. She is now 88 years old, and she can recount every piece of clothing she has worn throughout her life. In her upbringing, she displayed a more frugal and practical attitude. She doesn’t pay much attention to what she wears and prefers to mend and reuse old clothing. This attitude was relatively common in the past Chinese society, especially during times of material scarcity. She also never mentioned the concept of clothing and social hierarchy. In my grandmother’s perception, surviving through life was a stroke of luck, and she only has a primary school education, so she doesn’t understand the concept of environmental sustainability that we talk about today.

My mother was born in 1969, and she did not experience the turbulent periods i mentioned earlier. From my perspective, she is relatively open to new things, but she has told me that she has never purchased second-hand clothing. Her primary reason for this is her concern about the cleanliness of second-hand clothes. This reflects a negative perception of second-hand clothing among some people in China, possibly related to hygiene and sanitary conditions.

Furthermore, she mentioned that textile prices in China are relatively affordable, which might be one of the reasons why she doesn’t feel the need to buy second-hand clothing. However, she is conscious of dealing with second-hand clothing. Unlike the British perspective, where second-hand clothing symbolizes resilience and resourcefulness during difficult times, my mother simply views new clothes as inexpensive but not necessarily suitable for her. She does, however, give away clothes she no longer wears to others, but she prefers to give away new ones. In our conversation, unlike the reference, they did not mention that clothing symbolizes social status. Therefore, this aspect is not reflected in the beliefs of my mother and my grandmother.

This difference in attitude towards second-hand clothing between China and Britain reflects cultural and economic factors, as well as individual preferences and perceptions of cleanliness and value.

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Interview with my Mum and Grandmother

Mum Recording:

How do you view the practice of buying or using secondhand clothing as a shopping option?

Mum: I think buying second-hand clothes is a good thing, but the second-hand clothes must be clean.

Have you ever considered purchasing or using secondhand clothing?

Mum:I have not considered buying second-hand clothes, mainly because I think they are not clean.

For you, what are the differences between buying secondhand clothing and buying brand new clothing?

Mum:The price of new clothes is also very low in China. For example, I bought a short cashmere jacket for only 120 yuan recently. I don’t think I need to buy second-hand clothes. The main reason is the hygiene of second-hand clothes.

Do you own or have you used secondhand clothing before?

Mum:Never.

In your family or community, is second-hand clothing recycling common?

Mum:Yes. I’ve also received second-hand clothing. But they are basically brand new, so the tags have been cut off. The same goes for what I give to others.

From an environmental perspective, what do you think are the advantages and disadvantages of purchasing secondhand clothing compared to buying brand new clothing?

From an environmental perspective, the advantage of second-hand clothing is sustainability. But still a hygiene issue, I think this is disadvantage. New clothes won’t bother me. But it is not environmentally friendly, this is disadvantage.

It would be more acceptable to me if the old clothes could come in another form. Just like paper can be shredded and reused.

Grandmother Recording:

How do you view the practice of buying or using secondhand clothing as a shopping option?

I’ve never bought secondhand, I just have clothes to wear. My own old clothes are enough. I’m not particular about what I wear. I have only owned a few pieces of clothing in my life, and I can count the number of clothes I have worn. In fact, the old and unwanted clothes will be left there without being thrown away, and the new and unworn clothes will be given to relatives at home.

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Different cultural perspectives around clothing and second hand usage IN CHINA AND UK

In my own primary research among Chinese students in Shanghai, the findings suggest that in China, about 71% of students choose to ditch away their used clothes instead of donating them (Figure 1). They claimed that it was just a habit for them to do so.

Figure 1: How Chinese students deal with their unwanted clothing (Own Interview, 2023).

However, things are extremely different in the UK. In a research study among the British in 2019, it was found that at the time, more than 42% of people in the country had over half of their wardrobe made up of second-hand items, as is shown in Figure 2 (Smith, 2022).

Estimation of the proportion of consumers’ wardrobe acquired second-hand or vintage in the United Kingdom (UK) in 2019 (Smith, 2022).

Based on the two figures presented above, there goes without saying that it is important to find out the reasons behind Chinese people and British people’s different attitudes towards used clothes or secondhand clothes. In terms of why secondhand or used clothes are widely accepted in the UK, according to Hur (2022), it goes hand in hand with economic, self-expressive, hedonic, environmental, and social contribution values of the secondhand clothes. In other words, for many British people who choose to use secondhand clothes, these second clothes not only can help them save money but also address their increasing concern over environmental problems that are closely associated with the fashion industry, and wearing secondhand clothes shows people around them that they care about the environment and that they are contributing to make a difference. However, things are quite different in China. In a research study by Wang et al. (2022), Chinese customers, especially young people born in the 1990s and 2000s, do not think too much about economic or environmental protection motivations when they buy fashion items. Rather, their primary consideration when it comes to fashion consumption is treasure-hunting fun, as 96% of them claimed that they purchase clothing items for fun in the research by Wang et al. (2022).

In the meantime, cultural and historical factors may also have played their role in shaping the different attitudes of the Chinese people and the British people to the secondhand clothes. For example, according to Davis (2010), trading secondhand clothing in the UK went all the way back to 1700, where residents in both East End and West End in London began to trade secondhand clothes of the emerging middle class. Although secondhand clothing was once stigmatized as something for the poor, since World War I, the scarcity of resources have made secondhand clothing a symbol of perseverance in difficulty times in the UK (Maude Bass-Krueger, 2020). However, in China, due to the fact that people were not richer until the Open Up and Reform policy in the 1970s, many people still have the impression that used clothes are symbols for low-class and having low social acceptance (Xu et al., 2014). In view of such, it should not be surprising that in the UK, there has been a mature system for trading used clothes. For example, according to Ek Styven and Mariani (2020), in the UK, there are not only B2C (business to customers) platforms but also P2P (peer to peer) platforms for secondhand clothing. However, in China, the trading system for used clothes just got started in recent years as a result of the influence of increasing popularity of secondhand clothing from Western countries (Wang et al., 2022).

References

Davis, J. (2010). Marketing secondhand goods in late medieval England. Journal of Historical Research in Marketing, 2(3), 270–286. https://doi.org/10.1108/17557501011067815

Ek Styvén, M., & Mariani, M. M. (2020). Understanding the intention to buy secondhand clothing on sharing economy platforms: The influence of sustainability, distance from the consumption system, and economic motivations. Psychology & Marketing, 37(5), 724–739. https://doi.org/10.1002/mar.21334

Hur, E. (2020). Rebirth fashion: Secondhand clothing consumption values and perceived risks. Journal of Cleaner Production, 273, 122951–. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.122951

Maude Bass-Krueger, H. E.-D. (2021). Fashion, Society and the First World War : International Perspectives. Bloomsbury Academic.

Smith, P. (2022). Estimation of the proportion of consumers’ wardrobe acquired second-hand or vintage in the United Kingdom (UK) in 2019. Statista. https://www.statista.com/statistics/1135244/proportion-of-wardrobe-second-hand-in-the-uk/

Wang, B., Fu, Y., & Li, Y. (2022). Young consumers’ motivations and barriers to the purchase of second-hand clothes: An empirical study of China. Waste Management (Elmsford), 143, 157–167. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.wasman.2022.02.019

Xu, Y., Chen, Y., Burman, R., & Zhao, H. (2014). Second‐hand clothing consumption: a cross‐cultural comparison between American and Chinese young consumers. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 38(6), 670–677. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12139

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Next stage Strategy, goals and anticipated outcomes

Survey’s in China and the UK

Goal: My goal is to gain a deep understanding of the attitudes of Chinese and British millennials gen-z towards second-hand clothing, as well as the underlying reasons for these attitudes. I also aim to study the impact of different interventions in Shanghai gen-z attitudes.

My anticipate the following outcomes:

In-depth Understanding: Through interviews with my mother and grandmother and other research methods, i hope to gain a profound understanding of how Chinese people perceive second-hand clothing and how these attitudes vary across different age groups.

Impact of Interventions: I hope to understand how various interventions, such as influencer marketing in China social media, affect people’s attitudes and behaviors towards second-hand clothing instead of directly dithering these clothes.

Next Steps in Strategy Planning:

Detailed intervention Design: Continue refining my intervention design to ensure clear questions, appropriate methods, and cross-cultural sensitivity.

Intervention Planning: Develop a plan for interventions based on my goals and measurement criteria. Ensure each intervention has clear objectives and metrics for evaluation.

Literature Review: Dive deeper into the key literature on the culture of second-hand clothing in China and the UK. This will allow me to compare it with my actual research findings and interviews.

Implementation of Interventions: Begin implementing different interventions, such as reaching out to influencers and observing how their social media campaigns impact people’s attitudes.

Data Collection and Analysis: Collect data and analyze it to ensure data quality and reliability. Use appropriate statistical methods to compare and analyze results.

Feedback and Improvement: Continuously share my progress with my tutor and other stakeholders, gather feedback, and make improvements as necessary.

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Summary and reflection in Tutorial

Briefly list your key priorities or actions in the next stage

Let me summarize the content of our tutorial the day before yesterday.

Comparing data trends: Comparing data from Shanghai and London to explore the underlying reasons. It possible factors such as culture, knowledge and education, convenience and access, and environmental consciousness.

Exploring the attitudes of Chinese people towards second-hand clothing: I plan to interview your mother and grandmother, representing the second generation, to understand their thoughts and concepts about second-hand clothing. This can provide valuable insights into the changing attitudes and inheritance of second-hand clothing among Chinese people.

Contacting influencers for the next intervention: I intend to reach out to influencers and have them post about exchanging, selling, or giving away second-hand items. I’m  interested in understanding how their followers will react to these posts. Influencers demonstrating the reuse of second-hand clothing through videos, images, or live streams: I plan to have influencers showcase the process of reselling their unwanted clothing to promote the reuse of second-hand items. This can be done through videos, images, live streams, and other forms of content.

Feedback from Elizabeth

In response to your notes;

  • Can you be more specific than ‘millennials gen-z’, e.g. in a comparison between China and UK, in specific major cities or areas, etc.
  • Intervention 2 – do not cancel only on the basis of our conversation, you may wish to reframe from a different perspective?
  • Key people – take care to keep full details for all the people and organisations in your learning journal / log. 
  • Survey’s in China and the UK.  What is your strategy and how will you compare these two very different context?
  • Bias – well done for thinking tis through.
  • Contacting influences – again what is your strategy, goals and anticipated outcomes?
  • Remember to identify the key texts from the Chinese and UK contexts that discuss the different cultural perspectives around clothing and second hand usage.  You can then use these references to compare to the real life experiences of your mother and grandmother.
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Summary of work in June

What is the latest version of your question?

How to motivate millennials gen-z to treat their unwanted clothes and accessories for second use instead of directly dithering or throwing aways these clothes?

2. Briefly describe your most recent intervention(s)

Intervention#1 street interviews

in London revealed that the majority of people are willing to donate their unwanted clothes. The next common options are selling them online or giving them to family and friends. Very few people choose to directly throw away their clothes or are unsure about how to handle them.

After that in the survey conducted among Chinese students, it was found that out of the 118 participants, over 70% chose to directly throw away their unwanted clothes, while 30% opted for donation. This data is completely opposite to the findings from the street interviews in London. The habitual choice of throwing away and discarding for 71.19%.

Intervention#2 brand cooperation (be cancelled after tutorial)

The campaign’s objective is to educate and inspire the target audience to consider clothing reuse as a viable option instead of discarding it. By highlighting the environmental benefits and showcasing real-life examples, we aim to shift their behaviour towards sustainable fashion practices. To achieve this, a collaborative effort between the brand and myself was initiated. We discussed the importance of using sustainable materials for the promotional t-shirt to align with the campaign’s message. By choosing environmentally friendly fabrics and incorporating a visually appealing design, we hope to attract attention and spark conversations about clothing reuse.

3. What changes (for yourself or your stakeholders) have occurred as a result of your interventions?

Understanding: By comparing the results of the street interviews in London and the survey of Chinese students, I gain a clearer understanding of how students in both regions handle unwanted clothing. This helps you better comprehend the cultural differences and behavioral patterns between the two groups.

Increased awareness: Discovering the contrasting preferences in clothing disposal between the two regions, me and my stakeholders become more aware of the importance of promoting sustainable fashion and clothing reuse. This can guide us in developing more targeted interventions and awareness campaigns.

Collaboration opportunities: The changes in the results can also provide opportunities for collaboration and advancing the agenda of sustainable fashion among me and my stakeholders. I can explore cooperative efforts to provide more clothing recycling and reuse channels, catering to the needs of millennials gen-z and influencing their behavior.

4. What have you (or your stakeholders) learned?

Cultural differences: The data from the surveys highlighted the cultural differences in clothing disposal between London and Chinese students. This emphasizes the importance of considering cultural factors when designing interventions and initiatives related to sustainable fashion and clothing reuse.

Behaviour patterns: The results revealed distinct behaviour patterns among students in London and China when it comes to handling unwanted clothing. This understanding helps me tailor my approaches and interventions to suit the specific preferences and tendencies of each group.

Awareness and education: The findings highlight the need for increased awareness and education regarding sustainable fashion and clothing reuse, particularly among Chinese students. This knowledge can guide me in developing educational campaigns and initiatives that address the specific challenges and knowledge gaps observed in the survey.

5.  Provide a list of key people/organisations who have given feedback including experts, collaborators or gatekeepers

Kealan – Manager at British Heart Foundation (BHF)

George – Employee at British Heart Foundation (BHF)

Chinese students in London – Participants of street interviews

Stakeholders – Individuals or groups involved in the promotion of clothing reuse and sustainable fashion

Participants of the survey on Chinese students in Shanghai and the UK – Individuals who provided feedback and responses to the survey

6. What challenges have you encountered?

Limited participation: Encouraging individuals to participate in surveys or interviews can be challenging. It may be difficult to reach a sufficient number of participants or engage specific target groups, such as Chinese students in a foreign country.

Cultural differences: Dealing with cultural differences and understanding unique perspectives on clothing disposal and sustainability can be challenging. Different cultures may have varying attitudes, norms, and practices when it comes to clothing and fashion.

Bias and subjective responses: When collecting feedback, it’s important to consider the potential for bias or subjective responses. People’s answers may be influenced by social desirability bias, or other factors that can affect the accuracy and reliability of the data.

Collaboration and stakeholder engagement: Engaging and collaborating with relevant stakeholders, such as experts, collaborators, or gatekeepers, can be challenging. Building relationships, gaining trust, and ensuring active participation and support from stakeholders are essential for successful projects.

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“SWOT” model analysis

I analyzed the preliminary SWOT model of using influencers to encourage millennials and gen-z in Shanghai to embrace secondhand clothing, compared to how the UK treats used clothing.

STRENGTHS

  1. Social media holds significant influence in China. Comparing data from both countries, the UK and China have different approaches to handling used clothing. Past interventions have revealed that the majority of the younger generation in the UK frequently donates used clothing. However, there isn’t a strong awareness among China’s younger generation. Therefore, leveraging the widespread influence of social media and utilizing influencers on platforms can swiftly reach the target audience when promoting secondhand clothing.
  2. The cooperation with influencers offers greater flexibility in today’s Chinese market. Compared to the approach towards used clothing in the UK, leveraging current social media platforms allows for flexible and extensive dissemination to increase awareness about secondhand clothing without considering specific locations and more.
  3. The acceptance among young people would likely be higher. Compared to the traditional donation model of charities in the UK, Shanghai’s younger generation might be more open to embracing new and trendy fashion concepts. Therefore, leveraging social media influencers to promote secondhand clothing could potentially be more effective.

WEAKNESSES

  1. In the long-term perspective, there might develop an excessive dependence on influencers. Undeniably, influencers possess significant influence on social media, but if disagreements arise during future collaborations and lead to termination, the consequences could be irreversible.
  2. Potential inherent biases exist. In comparison to the UK, where historical periods like the two World Wars involved collecting used clothes to aid the country during hardship, in China, wearing secondhand clothes often signifies poor quality and denotes lower socioeconomic status. Some young individuals may hold negative biases against secondhand clothing, which could impact their acceptance of influencer endorsements.
  3. The intervention of using influencers to promote secondhand clothing as an alternative to outright disposal hasn’t undergone sufficient testing and lacks a commercial framework.

OPPORTUNITIES

  1. Education and awareness enhancement. Through the educational campaigns led by influencers, it contributes to increasing awareness among young people about secondhand clothing and helps dispel negative perceptions.
  2. Innovative marketing strategies. Leveraging innovative marketing strategies on social media platforms can lead to a more environmentally friendly and sustainable fashion concept.
  3. Spreading the concept of secondhand clothing rapidly through Chinese social media. Compared to the traditional charity model in the UK, the younger generation in present-day Shanghai, China, can widely and swiftly propagate the idea of secondhand clothing.

THREATS

  1. Competitive impact. The strong commercial influence in China’s fashion industry might overshadow the efforts of influencers promoting secondhand clothing.
  2. The secondhand clothing sectors in China haven’t received much attention. While secondhand clothing has seen some traction in recent years, primarily driven by returning students from overseas, there’s still a lack of supportive policies. The uncertainty remains regarding whether this field can take root in China.
  3. Changes in algorithms and social media platform policies. The algorithms and policies of social media platforms are continually evolving. This can impact how much audience exposure influencer content receives and may even lead to certain influencers facing platform restrictions, affecting their influence and outreach capabilities.
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Scale of the issue at the heart of my research

In terms of the scale of the secondhand clothing market for the millennials and Gen Z customers in Shanghai, it is massive, or even enormous. According to the official census from the Chinese government, as of 2020, among the total population in Shanghai, 20.3% were born between 1980 and 1989, and the figure for those born between 1990 and 1999 and those between 2000 and 2009 were 15.0% and 5.5 % respectively (An, 2023). This indicates that about 40.8% of the population in Shanghai is either millennials or Gen Zs, as generally millennials and Gen Zs refer to people born between 1981 and 2012. According to Textor (2023), as of 2020, the total population in Shanghai reached 27.06 million. This means the potential market size of my project will cover about 10.824 million people (27.06 million *40%=10.824 million). In fact, the population in Shanghai is projected to reach 34.34 million in 2023 (Textor, 2020). In other words, in the future, the market size for my project can be even larger than 10.824 million.

In the meantime, in case of secondhand clothes, there are also abundant resources in Shanghai. According to Shi (2019), Chinese people throw away 26 million tons of old clothes every year, but in Shanghai alone, hundreds of tons of clothes are thrown away every day, and less than 10% of them are recycled. In other words, each year, millions of tons of clothes are thrown away in the city of Shanghai along.

In view of what has been presented above, it is clear that my project will deal with a market more than 10 million people and millions of tons of old clothes in the city of Shanghai. This then makes the project at least look quantitatively promising. There is no need to worry about the market.

References

An, A. (2023). Age distribution: 70% in Shenzhen are born in the 1980s, 37% in Nantong, and Zhengzhou is very special. https://baijiahao.baidu.com/s?id=1765022074042048951&wfr=spider&for=pc

Shi, T. (2019). Recycling plastic bottles to make clothes, making “garbage” clothing fashionable in Shanghai. https://m.thepaper.cn/baijiahao_4656101

Textor, C. (2020). Estimated population of the urban area of Shanghai, China from 1980 to 2035(in millions). Statista. https://www.statista.com/statistics/466938/china-population-of-shanghai/

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Learning from the UK

In previous research, it has been confirmed that China is in a different place to the UK in relationship to attitudes to clothing, and buying new and second-hand clothing, Quantitatively, my own street interviews among Chinese students suggest that 71% of students choose to ditch away their used clothes instead of donating them. In the meantime, in a survey conducted among British people in 2019, researchers found that 42% of people in the country had over half of their wardrobe made up of second-hand items (Smith, 2022).

Quantitatively, in terms of the reason for this different relationship to attitudes to clothing, for British people, secondhand clothes not only help them reduce costs spent on money but also answer to their increasing concerns about environmental issues (Hur, 2022). In the meantime, in the UK, due to historical periods like two World Wars, where used clothes were collected to help the country survive hardship, secondhand clothes in the UK were seen as symbol of perseverance in difficulty times as well as efforts of community participation to make the country better (Maude Bass-Krueger, 2020). In comparison, in China, economic or environmental protection motivations are not priorities for young people to buy fashion products; their most important consideration is treasure-hunting fun (Wang et al., 2022). Also in China, wearing secondhand clothes means a person is wearing clothes of poor quality and a sign of lower socioeconomic status (Xue et al., 2014).

In view of what has been presented, the lessons can be learned from the UK’s success and mistakes are as the following. Firstly, it is evident that people in the UK are more supportive of secondhand clothes because they do not associate negative meanings such as poor economic conditions but positive meanings such as perseverance and community participation to secondhand clothes. From this perspective, it is important to raise Chinese people’s awareness of secondhand clothes’ positive meanings. For example, in my project, the clothes are mostly brand new, many of which have been used only once or twice. Therefore, it is important that I highlight wearing these secondhand clothes has nothing to do with a person being needy or poor. Secondly, as mentioned above, environmental concerns are also an important contribute to the factors of secondhand clothes’ popularity in the UK. From this perspective, it is also important for my intervention to highlight how the fashion industry is polluting the environment and possible negative effects on the young people.

In the meantime, despite the success in UK, there is still room for further improvement. For example, according to Smith (2022), while 42% British people had over half of their wardrobe made up of second-hand items, 58% of them did not have the same condition. Therefore, even the UK can further increase people’s awareness of secondhand clothes to further appeal the remaining 58%. In terms of how to do so, working with key opinion leaders on social media may be an effective choice, as Ferrao and Alturas (2018) found that in the fashion industry today, key opinion leaders on social media can impact customer fashion decision making and change their perspectives to a large extent.

References

Ferrao, A. M., & Alturas, B. (2018). The online purchasing decision process and consumer loyalty of fashion industry products: Influence of social media and “opinion makers.” 2018 13th Iberian Conference on Information Systems and Technologies (CISTI), 1–6. https://doi.org/10.23919/CISTI.2018.8399396

Maude Bass-Krueger, H. E.-D. (2021). Fashion, Society and the First World War : International Perspectives. Bloomsbury Academic.

Smith, P. (2022). Estimation of the proportion of consumers’ wardrobe acquired second-hand or vintage in the United Kingdom (UK) in 2019. Statista. https://www.statista.com/statistics/1135244/proportion-of-wardrobe-second-hand-in-the-uk/

Wang, B., Fu, Y., & Li, Y. (2022). Young consumers’ motivations and barriers to the purchase of second-hand clothes: An empirical study of China. Waste Management (Elmsford), 143, 157–167. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.wasman.2022.02.019

Xue, Y., Chen, Y., Burman, R., & Zhao, H. (2014). Second‐hand clothing consumption: a cross‐cultural comparison between American and Chinese young consumers. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 38(6), 670–677. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12139

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Feedback from my expert

It’s great that i met your expert, Kealan, who is the manager at the British Heart Foundation. He has been working there for 3 years and has over 10 years of experience in the charity shop.


Since we were communicating at their warehouse, where photography is not allowed. Kealan gave me his email address so that i can continue to stay in touch and maintain contact with him.

I shared the results of my first intervention street interviews in London and questionnaire survey in Shanghai. I wanna explore why millennials gen-z in London prefer donating to charity shops. Also, Does the charity have a definition of “quality donations” is for recycling, and What is the process for disposing of clothing after receiving it from a charity?

Summary Feedback from Kealan:

Question1

Based on my experience, it’s not only millennials gen-z but also older generations in the UK who share the enthusiasm for donating and purchasing from charity shops. When I first entered this industry, I developed a strong affinity for secondhand clothing. I believe that scoundhand shopping is a fun and creative way to curate one’s wardrobe while staying within a budget. Millennials and Gen Z individuals often exhibit a heightened sense of social and environmental awareness. Donating to charity shops aligns with their values of reducing waste, reusing items, and supporting charitable causes. It’s considered a sustainable way to extend the lifespan of clothing and reduce textile waste.

Question2

Generally, quality donations for recycling might refer to items that are in good condition and can be efficiently processed and repurposed for their intended use. For example, in the case of clothing donations, “quality donations” could mean clothing items that are clean, undamaged, and suitable for reuse. We also accept all types of clothing for recycling. There will just be different places to go.

Question3

Once textiles arrive at recycling facilities, they are sorted based on their material type. For example, cottons would be separated from wools and nylons. Once the clothes have been sorted, they are cleaned and processed into reusable fibres. The clothes are then typically shredded to make the fibres easier to spin into new yarns or fabrics. The recycled fibres can be used to create a variety of products depending on the quality of the fibres. Some may indeed be made into new garments. Others may go to rag recycling where they are used to make things like carpet underlay and dust cloths. Textiles that aren’t suitable for recycling will usually end up in landfill sites, exported overseas for reuse in poorer nations, or incinerated to create energy.

what i learned:

In summary, following today’s conversation, I’ve come to understand that Millennials and Gen Z in London prefer donating due to their heightened social and environmental awareness. The widespread promotion of secondhand culture has made it an engaging and meaningful way to curate their wardrobes. I can incorporate these insights into my future interventions with the aim of having a more impactful influence. At the same time, I have also gained an understanding of the definition and operational processes of charitable organizations in the UK, which is highly relevant to my research.

Part of Recording:

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